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Image - Historical photo of a young City of Hot Springs

(From South Dakota Historical Collections, Compiled by the South Dakota State Historical Society and the Board of Cultural Preservation. Volume 41, 1982)

The southern portion of the Black Hills contains a reservoir of geothermal energy in which permeable rock containing water lies above a heat source. The heated water rises to a cap of impermeable rock, where fissures allow some of the warm water to flow to the surface as thermal springs. Early inhabitants of the plains region surrounding the Black Hills utilized these hot-water springs to ease bodily pains and treat illnesses. Local legend says the Cheyenne Indians became possessors of the springs, but a battle for custody of the waters took place on a peak overlooking the waters, now named Battle Mountain, adjacent to the city of Hot Springs.

In 1875, scientists Walter P, Jenney and Henry Newton studied this region, and this expedition was the first to produce definite information about the thermal waters in the southern foothills, now in the city of Hot Springs. Lt. Col. Dodge, who accompanied the 1875 expedition, discussed this southern steam in his 1876 publication:

“Many deep and narrow “box” canyons … unite to form a wide and deep gorge, perfectly dry until it reaches the foot-hills.

Suddenly, a fine large stream, carrying quite two thousand miners’ inches, springs from the bottom of the gorge, and, after a course of only twelve miles, joins the South Cheyenne River.

This stream is called by the Indians Minne-catta, or Warm Water Creek, the temperature of the water where it bursts from the ground being seventy-four degrees Fahrenheit, entirely too warm for drinking purposes.”

- Lt. Col. Dodge, 1875

In the fall of 1881, five men gathered in Deadwood, Dakota Territory, to form the Hot Springs Town-Site Company. These five men, Rudolphus D. Jennings, an internal revenue collector, Alexander S. Stewart, a receiver at the United States land office, Ervin G. Dudley, a sawmill owner, L. R. Graves, president of the First National Bank of Deadwood, and Fred T. Evans, freighter/transportation company owner. They had come to the Black Hills of Dakota during the gold rush of the late 1870s.

The five men planned to develop a warm-water resort at the southern end of the Black Hills in an area containing about seventy-five warm-water, mineral –rich springs. These five men and others who followed them built the town of Hot Springs based on the pursuit of health and pleasure, a town unique in the region.

For the five men of the town-site company, the popular and medical acceptance of warm mineral springs seemed to insure the success of the town they planned to build. Their hopes for a town were based not on gold, farm land, or cattle, but because of the presence of warm water, mineral rich springs, a natural feature much valued in this era. It was Fred Evans whose name would become most closely connected with the city of Hot Springs. The health spa businesses grew, physicians prescribed mineral water as treatments for their patients, and the region was indeed growing. In 1883 the community became more respectable when the new town became the county seat of Fall River County. Prior to 1883, Hot Springs and the surrounding area south to the Nebraska border were a part of Custer County, with the county seat located at Custer.

The new town of Hot Springs was thriving, but desperately needed an improved transportation system so the trip to the city could be made more easily. A partial solution to this problem was reached in 1885, when the Fremont, Elkhorn, and Missouri Valley Railroad reached Buffalo Gap, within thirteen miles of Hot Springs. In 1886 Fred concentrated his considerable energies on the health resort business at Hot Springs. The original five members of the Hot Springs Town-Site Company reorganized into the Dakota Hot Springs Company, with Evans its president, Dudley its vice-president, Graves its treasurer, Jennings its secretary, and Stewart its superintendent. One of the company’s first actions was the construction of the Minnekahta Hotel, a two-story frame structure. The hotel was advertised as the “most complete hotel in Dakota”. The company’s effort captured the attention of investors in Iowa, and in the fall of 1887, these investors bought the controlling interest in the Dakota Hot Springs Company, and Evans replaced Stewart as superintendent of the company, with complete power.

By 1887, the health resort business was developing steadily, with several bathhouses. Plunge and vapor baths were given from 10 AM to 6 PM during the season at a cost of twenty-five cents. In the fall of 1887, Hot Springs was chosen as the site for the Black Hills Methodist Mission College. In the spring of 1898 the Grand Army of the republic chose Hot Springs as a location for a territorial soldiers’ home. In the years between 1882 and 1889, the new town had grown from a cluster of cabins to a promising community, and from a tiny health spa with a handful of clients to a burgeoning resort welcoming dozens of people each week. These events heralded the years of greatest growth for Hot Springs.

Many structures were constructed of Lakota sandstone obtained from quarries outside of town. The architecture of these buildings was adapted from the Romanesque style, featuring arcades, round arches, and heavy ornamentation. These buildings are well preserved, and are a large part of the down business district today. An election held on August 8, 1890 resulted in 127 people voting to incorporate as the city of Hot Springs. In 1890, the Fremont, Elkhorn and Missouri Valley Railroad extended a branch from its main line running through Buffalo Gap to Hot Springs. The next year, the Burlington constructed a branch into Hot Springs from its main line, which ran through Edgemont to Deadwood. So by 1892, Hot Springs was accessible from all directions by rail.

The biggest development in baths was the Plunge, built by Fred Evans in 1891. The building was constructed of wood, iron, and glass, and covered a pool approximately seventy by two hundred feet. Various slides, diving boards, rafts, and other accessories were provided for the enjoyment of the guests. Evans Plunge is still operating at the same site. In 1893, our sandstone City Hall (still used today), and an impressive sandstone public school building (now the Fall River County Museum) were built. By the end of 1893 the population of Hot Springs was estimated at 3350, and the city had laid more than five miles of sidewalk and graded more than three miles of streets in the preceding three years.

Although bathhouses retained popularity, a new trend toward more scientific health care was developing. This trend utilized the waters, but also offered broader services. The most important of these facilities was Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a national hospital for veterans. Construction of the million dollar complex began in 1903 and was completed four years later. The building material was local sandstone. Battle Mountain Sanitarium opened in April 1907, and forty-eight veterans transferred in to become the first residents. This is now the Veterans Administration Health Care facility. In addition to Battle Mountain Sanitarium, Our Lady of Lourdes Hospital, and Nichols Cancer Sanitarium, the Hygeo-Medical Sanitarium and the Hot Springs Sanitarium and Hospital also served the medical needs of Hot Springs residents and visitors in the early twentieth century. Over the next several decades Hot Springs became known as “The Veteran’s Town”, caring for veterans at the Veterans Administration Health Care facility, (still in the original sandstone building), and the State Veteran’s Home (on a campus including the original sandstone building). The community still embraces and cares for veterans at these facilities, and by including the veterans in the everyday lives and activities of Hot Springs residents.

Hot Springs has its unique history, which is only touched on above. Its colorful growing pains and conflicts are part of the fascinating history of Hot Springs, a city of warm water and warm people.

Pioneer Museum then
Pioneer Museum now

Completed in 1893, the sandstone school on the hill in the center of town was occupied in January 1894. The school was complete with indoor toilets. The 21,560 square foot building served all grades within its four floors.

Depot Visitor Center then

In the summer of 1891 the railroads brought their first train into town, the Elkhorn whistling in first and the Burlington coming about a month later. The two corporations had been bitter rivals during the buildings of their extensions into the Hills but once they reached the limpid water of Fall River, the peaceful waters influenced them and they united amicably to build a common passenger depot, “The smallest union station in the world.”

Depot Visitor Center now

A Chicago & North Western was the last train to leave Hot Springs on November 4, 1938. The city-owned depot is used as a seasonal visitor information center staffed by the Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce.

Depot Visitor Center now

The depot is located across from one of the sandstone blocks in Hot Springs.

VA Administration Building then

Battle Mountain Sanitarium was built of locally quarried sandstone during the years 1903 to 1907 as a National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers (NHDVS). The commissioned architect was Thomas Rogers Kimball who designed the Spanish Mission style buildings. In 1930, all 11 NHDVS facilities, including Battle Mountain Sanitarium, were transferred to the Veterans Administration. Today it operates as a Department of Veterans Affairs medical facility.

Battle Mountain Sanitarium Website

VA Black Hills Health Care System Website

VA Administration Building now

In 2012 the Battle Mountain Sanitarium (B.M.S.), featuring 31 historic and 14 non-historic buildings was named a National Historic Landmark by the National Historic Preservation Trust. The campus is 77 acres on a hill overlooking Hot Springs.

VA Administration Building now

The B.M.S. was designed with windows on each side of the wards allowing for fresh air circulation.

Fred Evans became a dominant force in the building of this now famous place. He erected the magnificent Evans Hotel, the Evans Plunge Bath, the Minnekahta business block, the Fall River County Courthouse and residences. He was a philanthropist who graded and built the streets of the upper town at his own expense, donated land for several churches and it was mainly through his influence that the railroads built into Hot Springs.

Evans Plunge then
Evans Plunge now

Evans Plunge Bath, opened in 1891, is the oldest family commercial attraction in the Black Hills and is the world's largest natural warm water indoor swimming pool. The Plunge is fed by springs of medicinal qualities with a constant temperature of 87 degrees. The inflow of 5,000 gallons per minute, with a complete change of water 16 times daily insures clean water. A new structure was built in 1970 and has been updated frequently including new slides indoors and out.

Evans Plunge then
Evans Plunge now
Episcopal Church then

The Episcopal Church on the right, the Gillespie Hotel on the left, the Union Depot, Evans Hotel, Minnekahta Block and the Battle Mountain Sanitarium (VA) is shown at the top of the photo. The Gillespie burned in 1932.

Episcopal Church now

The same view starting with the Episcopal Church.

The Evans Hotel then

The Evans Hotel opened in August 1892.

The Evans Hotel now

Now called simply The Evans, the building was renovated in 1979 into high rise apartments for elderly and disabled persons. Today 85 individuals enjoy living in this historic structure.

City Hall then

City Hall, including a new jail within, was constructed in 1893.

City Hall now

City Hall has had few exterior modifications over the years and continues as the home of city government.

Courthouse then

1891 was the year the Fall River County Courthouse was constructed.

Courthouse now

The courthouse has been steadily improved over the years and is fully handicapped-accessible.

Kidney Springs Gazebo then

The Kidney Springs Gazebo, on the left, was a favorite spot for old perambulating veterans. The Gillespie Hotel which burned in 1932 is also shown.

Kidney Springs Gazebo now

The gazebo is on a 1.3 mile paved and lighted trail feature on the River Walk which has been constructed along the Fall River. The lighted trail, which runs nearly the length of the town, is ADA compliant, welcoming motorized wheelchairs, scooters and conveyances for the disabled. All other motorized vehicles are forbidden.

Public Library

The new Hot Springs Public Library opened on June 10, 2007.

Hot Springs Historic Preservation District

Image - Historic aerial shot of Hot Springs"The historic preservation district and sites are established pursuant to a comprehensive program developed for the preservation of the historical, archaeological and cultural heritage of the City of Hot Springs, and to promote the use and conservation of such property for the education, inspiration, pleasure and enrichment of the citizens of Hot Springs, the State of South Dakota and the United States."

Hot Springs Historic Preservation Commission

The Hot Springs Historic Preservation Commission was created to monitor and enforce the Historic preservation Ordinance and the Historic District Regulations as allowed under that same Ordinance.  The Historic District Regulations were developed "to promote the economic, cultural and general welfare of the people of the City of Hot Springs and to ensure the harmonious, orderly and efficient growth and development of the municipality, the Common Council deems it essential that the historic integrity of Hot Springs be preserved and the heritage of the City be maintained and protected in a sensitive and responsible manner.  It is the purpose of this ordinance to insure the preservation of those buildings and areas within the Hot Springs Historic District which possess cultural, historic or aesthetic significance to the district and to discourage alterations of existing structures or the construction of new structures, which detract from the aesthetic harmony, style, form, color, proportion, texture or materials of the district."

The Commission is made up of six members who have been appointed by the Mayor and approved by the Common Council.  All Commission members shall reside within Hot Springs and shall serve a staggared term of three years.  The Commission meets once per month on the first Wednesday at 5:00 pm in the Heritage Room at the Hot Springs Library.  To get on the Historic Commission's agenda all applications for a Certificate of Appropriateness will have to be submitted to the Planning Adminstrator's office no later than one week before the meeting.

Name                                                                  3-Year Term
Brian Powers, Chairman                                     2019-2021
Pat Lyke                                                              2017-2020
Steve Wynia                                                        2017-2020
Brian Crawford                                                        2018-2021
Carolann Schwarzenbach                                   2017-2020
Joe Muller                                                           2017-2020
Kara Hagan                                                        2019-2021

To find more information about the Historic Preservation District, its regulations or requirements click on the following links:

Important Dates

1879 Spring claimed by Col. Thornby, wrote on tree trunk
1880 Population 28
1882 Dakota Hot Springs Company founded
1883 January 31 first platted lots were filed
Sidney to Deadwood Stage Line route
1886 Dakota Hot Springs Company formed
1888 Voted Fall River County seat
1889 South Dakota State Soldiers Home constructed
1890 August 2, first city election held
Mayor—J.B. Dickover
Aldermen—F.D. Gillsespie, F.R. Connor,
R.D. Jennings, Wm. Crane, W.W. Root, Henry Marty
Treasurer—A.S Stewart; Police Justice—W.E. Benedict
City Justice—E. Calhoun

Monday, August 4, first city council meeting
Gillespie, president; Connor, vice president;
City Attorney—Chambers Keller, City Engineer—Walter Scott,
City Clerk—Tom Wells
1891 Evans Plunge Bath opened
Fall River County Courthouse constructed
Fremont, Elkhorn and Missouri Valley Railroad arrived
Burlington & Missouri Railroad arrived
Union Depot opened
1892 Evans Hotel opened
1893 Electricity comes to town
City water lines installed
City Hall and new jail built
Sandstone school built in center of town
Women voted in school election
1901 Library opened in old city hall
1907 Battle Mountain Sanitarium completed
1948 Streets were renamed (Ordinance 198)
1960 New elementary school built
1961 Sandstone school converted into Pioneer Museum
2007 June 10, the new Hot Springs City Library opened